National Museum

The largest, and without doubt, the most important museum in the Kingdom is the National Museum of Antiquities. Situated as one of the cornerstones of the King Abdul Aziz Historical Centre in the Murabba Park, its impressive curved frontage looks out onto a babbling spring that trickles over boulders of basalt which were transported from the north of the country.

The museum was designed by the Canadian firm Moriyama & Teshima Architects with Büro Happold Engineers. The Canadian firm LORD Cultural Resources Planning & Management and the Royal Ontario Museum provided exhibit design services for the 30,000 square-metre project. It features eight galleries which tell the story of Saudi Arabia from the earliest of times up to the present day.

The first gallery, called Man and the Universe, presents the creation of the universe and the Earth, the formation of mineral and rock, and the environmental conditions that led to the Kingdom’s accumulation of its vast mineral wealth including the formation and accumulation of oil over millions of years.

The Arabian Kingdoms is the theme of the second hall which examines the different civilisations that inhabited the Arabian Peninsula and the growth of trade in the region. Archaeological objects depicting the development of calligraphy are also shown.

Hall number three is devoted to the pre-Islamic era which lasted from around 400 B.C until the revelation of the Prophet Mohammad. The exhibit includes replicas of the pre historic cities of Makkah, Jarash, Yathrib, Khaibar, Najraan, Khadrama, and Dawmat Aljandal.

Following on from this, the fourth gallery displays the life and mission of the Prophet Mohammad from the day of his birth until his journey to Madinah – the event that marks the beginning of the Hijrah calendar. It shows his family tree in both Arabic and English, and his biography from the time of his childhood. A large ceramic painting depicts the main events of the Prophet’s life, beginning with his migration from Makkah. Also shown is the way in which the Quraish tribe rebuilt the Ka’abah after its destruction by floods.

Gallery five – Islam and the Arabian Peninsular – concerns the period from the Prophet Mohammed’s arrival in Madinah until the establishment of the first Saudi State: the early era of Islam and the rule of the Caliphs, and the collection, recording, and preservation of the Holy Qur’an. Also shown is a history of Arabic calligraphy with samples of different types of Arabic script dating from the second Hijrah century .

The first and second Saudi states are the subject of the next gallery, which goes into some depth about the history of Dir’iyyah and the allegiance between Imam Mohammed ibn Abdul Wahhab and the Al Saud. A large three-dimensional replica of the city recreates its streets, mosques, markets and farms. There is also a replica of the new capital of Riyadh during the second Saudi state that shows the original walls, streets, buildings and old weaponry of the time.

Unification is the theme of the large circular seventh gallery showing how Abdul Aziz re-captured the city of Riyadh on January 15, 1902 and then went on to unify the regions of Najd, al-Hassa, Asir, Hail, al-Hijjaz and Jazaan. A documentary film demonstrates the discovery of oil in the Kingdom, the subsequent process of development, and its role in the lives of the people of the Arabian Peninsula.

The final hall represents the history of the Two Holy Mosques and the Hajj through the centuries. There are various exhibits that include ancient and recent tools, the fabric covering of the Holy Ka’abah, and some brass and antique artifacts belonging to the Holy Mosque. In addition there is a curtain and a door of the Holy Ka’abah.

You will be hard pressed to do the museum full justice in just one visit, but it should certainly be on everybody’s itinerary when they visit Riyadh.

Enter from King Faisal Street where you see the landmark Water Tower. Pass the Deputy Ministry of Antiquities on your right and find car parking in one of the limited available spaces around the park – either near the Murabba Palace, or outside on the perimeter road of the park itself.

{I am indebted to John Roedel for letting me know that according to the Museum website, it is open for visitors from 4-8pm Monday to Thursday and 4-9pm on Friday and Saturday. In the mornings it is open Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays for boys from 8-2.30; on Mondays and Wednesdays for women and girls; and on Saturdays from 9-1 for families. (August 2014)}

Cost of entry is SR15.

Parks

The first time visitor to the Saudi capital might be forgiven for thinking that the city stretches in all directions as a vast sprawl of buildings, old and new. Yet, scratch a little below the surface and you will soon find that as well as the DQ’s parks, Riyadh boasts dozens of open green spaces – far too many to list here.

The most famous – and probably the most popular – is the Murabba Park which houses the King Abdul Aziz Historical Centre and sports the splendid striped water tower (which is actually a copy of the Svampen Tower in the Swedish town of Orebro.)

Of course, you will want to visit the National Museum and Murabba Palace whilst you are here, but look out for the 100 Palms – a 10 x 10 grid of palm trees planted in 2002 to commemorate the centenary of the capture of Riyadh ...

... as well as the four mini-parks situated at the main entrances to Murabba – Al Waadi, Al Haras, Al Sor and Al Yamama – lovely areas which, unfortunately, are only open to families.

In front of the National Museum itself is a water garden including an area where children can run through water falls, punt over a canal and generally enjoy themselves getting thoroughly wet!

South west from here, where King Fahd Highway meets Tariq bin Ziad, an old date farm covering some 300,000 square metres has been converted into a public park, known as Salam. A tenth of this area is given over to a lake which has been carefully planned to ensure continuous water movement to prevent the proliferation of mosquitoes. Half the lake has been devoted to boating, whilst part has also been designed to promote wild life and attract local and migrating birds.

Close to the Malaz stadium you can find Prince Fahd al-Faisal Park where Salah Ad Din Road meets Jamiah Street. This is one of the oldest parks in the city and tends to get quite crowded in the evenings. It is mainly laid to flat green areas with many seats under shady trees.

Not far away, just two blocks due west of the Zoo can be found Jabal Abu Makhrouq Park, known to Westerners as The Camel’s Eye – an area of historical importance as the hillock it contains was used by King Abdul Aziz for surveillance over Riyadh in 1902. The natural rock formations have been complimented by the use of local stone in the formation of the park, and there are waterfalls and fountains to delight the visitor.

One of the newer parks, on the other hand, was established by the Chamber of Commerce to mark its 50th anniversary. It can be found just to the north west of the King Faisal Air College on the extension of Al Ihsa Road. Featured in the centre is a fountain that represents the Chamber’s logo, and from its centre is a 12 metre high tower which spouts water. This tower is surrounded by six quadrants of gears, each of which is surrounded by another group of circular fountains which change colour.

Another park which features water prominently is the Al Maktaba Park, which can be found on the western side of Olaya Street and which backs on to the King Fahd Library. Opposite the main gate is a waterfall which flows into an artificial pool that meanders the length of the garden. Four fountains add to the overall effect and you will also see a six-metre-high clock tower that can be seen from virtually anywhere within the park.

Many of Riyadh’s parks have been reserved for the use of families only and some charge a small entrance fee – typically SR2. Some close all day on one day of the week – usually Saturday, Sunday or Monday and the majority are open in the afternoons and evenings only, often right up until midnight.

Don’t be put off by some of the gaudy entrances, which, one suspects, are there to encourage the kids. Once inside there is plenty to explore, though try to avoid going at busy times such as weekends, since they are over-run – literally – by local children.

There also appears to be a subtle difference between ‘parks’ and ‘gardens’ – the latter appearing more adult-friendly, though possibly because they are slightly smaller than the parks, and so don’t have so much laid on for the children.

Murabba Park entrance: 24 38.75’ N; 46 42.76’ E

As Salam Park: 24 37’.37’ N; 46 42.63’ E

Prince Fahd al-Faisal Park: 24 39.95’ N; 46 43.91’ E

Jabal Abu Makhrouq Park: 24 40.43’ N; 46 43.6’ E

Chamber of Commerce Park: 24 41.85’ N; 46 43.71’ E

Al Maktaba Park: 24 41.19’ N; 46 41.31’ E