Showing posts with label Saudi Arabia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Saudi Arabia. Show all posts

Drive to the UAE

Contrary to what you may surmise by looking at maps of KSA, you DON'T need to drive to the UAE via the Dammam road.

For a few years there has been a perfectly good road that doesn't appear on any of the “older” maps, and in the process it takes off over 100km from the “old” journey via Hofuf.

First, the basics. You can comfortably drive from Riyadh to Dubai in about 10 hours (to Abu Dhabi in about nine hours). It's an easy drive, with the biggest danger being falling asleep at the wheel from the relentlessly unchanging countryside as you drive through the emirate of Abu Dhabi! From Riyadh to the border is about 520kms. From the border to Dubai Trade Centre (25 13.69' N; 55 17.41' E) is about 480kms.


The route you should follow takes you south to Al Kharj, and then along highway 10 via Haradh and straight across a corner of the Empty Quarter to the border town of Batha. If this road is not marked on your map, then draw a straight line from Haradh to Batha and this is the road you take!

A great deal of the journey is on single track roads, and the maximum distance between petrol stations is around 160kms, though most are clustered much closer together. Although the majority of traffic travelling the Haradh to Batha road is made up of lorries, the standard of driving is generally good and the lorries will regularly wave you past, indicating when it is unsafe to overtake.

However, you should not attempt this route at night as it can be dangerous with oncoming headlights, not to mention the fact that there are long sections with no camel fencing. If you have never seen the results of a car driving into a camel, believe me.. you really don't want to!

The journey couldn't be simpler. Go south 100 kms and then due east for 900kms! Start on Riyadh 's Eastern Ring Road and set your odometer to zero at junction 13 (24 42.83' N; 46 45.72' E) – the Makkah-Khoreis road. Leave the ring road system at junction 18 (24 37.98' N; 46 48.13' E), and travel south, signposted to Al Kharj. Be aware that at 30kms, you need to take the turn off at junction 12 (24 30.29' N; 46 56.16' E) – there is a sign to Al Kharj in Arabic only (ال كرج ) which is very easy to miss. If you do miss it, you will find the road comes to an abrupt end three kilometers on – though there is then a U-turn allowing you to regain the Al Kharj road.

You go through a check point at 40kms (24 12.11' N; 48 04.83' E) and at about 80kms reach the outskirts of Al Kharj, with the famous water tower looming up at 85kms. At the traffic lights immediately after the tower (24 09.73' N; 47 17.87' E) , turn left, signposted to Harad (later spelt Haradh) and when you get to traffic lights at 90kms you need to take the left hand fork.

You can now forget about directions as you don't veer left or right for the next 900kms! At 101kms you pass Al Safi's dairy farm on your left and the entrance to the massive Prince Sultan airbase on your right at 109kms.

From here on, the road turns into single track. Look out for the unusual bird houses at 114kms on your left (24 12.12' N; 47 33.70' E) and go through a normally-unmanned check point just before Almarai's central processing plant (24 13.67' N; 47 39.34' E).

If you're a train fanatic, you can look out for cargo trains on your left travelling the southern route between Riyadh and Hofuf, starting at 130kms and running parallel with the road for the next 140kms. I normally see two of these long trains when I travel this route.


At 170kms you go through another check point (24 09.35' N; 48 57.14' E) just before the start of the red sands and the road continues on relentlessly until at around 215kms you will see that work is well underway on the creation of a dual carriageway stretch.


According to my friend Jason, there is now a second carriageway under construction but, as per usual in KSA, no sign of when it may be completed. Also on this section of the journey there are some sections of road, at most about 1.5km long, that have had the top surface removed, presumably in preparation for resurfacing and long sections of the road with no central markings. There is no warning approaching these unsurfaced sections.

Pass Nadec's arable farms near Haradh at 250kms and then go through another check point at 260kms after which you will travel through a section of the Empty Quarter .


In truth, the scenery is not particularly stunning – the light yellow dunes are relatively flat and the road is punctuated with the occasional red signs saying “ Sand Dunes” (the first one 30kms in from the start of this section!) and lots of activity of roadside workers bulldozing sand from the side of the road and spraying it with liquid tar to stop it blowing across the carriageway.

At 520kms you reach Batha. Fill up with petrol a couple of kms before the border as once you cross over you will be paying over three times the price.

Incidentally, since June 2010 in the UAE petrol is now sold in litres - just as in Saudi. But unlike in Saudi where petrol is sold at octane ratings of 91 and 95, the UAE sells 95 and 98 (“special” and “super”) grades.

The Saudi customs post is at 520kms (24 07.79' N; 51 34.35' E). First you must show your passport and car istimara (ownership card) and you will be handed a piece of paper which from here on will be stamped at every border check. The next check is to make sure your passport and piece of paper are in order before you are waved on to drive the next five kms to the UAE border. Drive straight through the police post archway (normally unmanned) to the next check, at which point you will be told to go into the passport control office (unless you are a GCC citizen) on your left. This passport office can be recognised by its turreted end towers. Once inside you might be asked to undergo a retina scan (I have been asked to do this on two of my five journeys through) and to fill out a form (remember to take a pen in with you!!!) before having your details entered into the UAE computer.

You now drive to the customs inspection hall where your details are checked again before a customs officer inspects your car and stamps your piece of paper. Immediately after the customs hall is another stop-off point – this time for car insurance. No matter if your Saudi insurance covers you for driving in the UAE. You still have to buy car insurance here – SR100 for 10 days or SR150 for a month – or else you won't get your piece of paper stamped and you won't be allowed to enter the country! There are four insurance booths, representing four different companies, but it appears immaterial which one you plump for.

Finally, having had your piece of paper stamped for the last time you drive to the last check point and give it up to be allowed to enter the country.


From here on in the road is excellent – but remember that there is a 100kph speed limit for most of the journey through Abu Dhabi emirate, and there are speed cameras and “sleeping” police cars throughout the trip. When you enter Dubai , the speed limit is 120kph, again with plenty of speed cameras.

Again Jason tells me that the speed limit on the UAE road from the Batha border to Abu Dhabi is signposted as 100 kph at junctions but the speed radar warning signs say 120 kmph. Just to confuse things further, it is common knowledge that the Abu Dhabi police will not fine drivers unless their radar shows speeds in excess of 139 kmph! Dubai police, on the other hand are much less forgiving, and you are advised to keep within the speed limits there.

If you intend driving through Dubai, you should know that a toll system has been introduced in four places on the Sheikh Zayed Road – the first one at Barsha, near Media City. There are plenty of warnings for you to purchase a Salik sticker in any Dubai petrol station (Dhs100 from which Dhs4 is deducted every time you drive through a toll bridge) and don't think because you are driving a “foreign car” you can get away with not paying. These things are checked on the border!

The only way to escape the toll system is to drive inland on the Emirates road in order to bypass Dubai altogether, or to use the local roads such as Al Wasl Road, which runs parallel to Sheikh Zayed.

Finally, you should be aware that when driving back to Saudi you will be charged an exit visa fee of Dhs35.

I received the following info from Geoff Holland in September 2012:
There is a better road to Dubai than the al-kharj road. From Riyadh take the Damman road from exit 8 for about 50km, then take the Hoffuf road. About 20 or 30km before Hoffuf the road goes to the south, bypassing Hoffuf. Then continue to the Saudi-UAE border.

I have done every combination of road and this is the best as large sections of it are completely new and it's dual carriageway all the way. The main problem with the al Kharj road is it's dangerous at night as the cars overtake in front of oncoming cars with their headlights on full beam.

Other notes for the Riyadh-Hoffuf-UAE route: Like the al Kharj route, petrol stations are few, so when you see a petrol station, fill up. There is a small hotel on the Saudi side of the border, perhaps 10 or more km from the border, on the left coming from Saudi. It could be useful if you want to break the long drive up into 2 halves.

Drive to Qatar

It never ceases to amaze me how few people consider driving over to Qatar from Riyadh. Yet the journey is extremely easy, the distance is just undert 500kms to the border (and then only 90kms to Doha) and you can make it easily from Riyadh to Doha in around six hours.

I normally leave Riyadh between 5 and 6am and schedule business appointments for the afternoon and the following morning, thus ensuring I can drive in both directions in the daylight.

Head out on the Dammam Road (either from junction 8 or else eastbound on the Makkah-Khoreis Road). Once you reach the junction to Thumamah near the camel souq (stay on the Dammam Road), set your odometer to zero.

The first part of the drive is pretty uneventful. You go through your first check point after about 50kms. As you approach the Sa’ad turnoff (also signposted Se’ed) at 25 08.7’N 47 33.4’E you’ll see gas flaring over to your left.


And about 100kms out of Riyadh the sand dunes turn bright red. Although you can turn off up into the dunes, you’re likely to find this a disappointment as close-up the area is covered in litter. Better to admire them from afar!


The desert has lots of scrub around here and you will normally see very many herds of camels, goats and sheep.


There’s a Sasco petrol station at 131kms (petrol is slightly more expensive here – typically +3halalas) and soon afterwards you start to see quite a few Saudi Aramco oil pipelines. Go through your next check point at 142kms (25 27.14’N, 48 03.54’E)

At 239kms (25 21. 9’N, 49 22.5’E) you take a right turn - signposted to Qatar, United Arab Emirates and Oman – but note you should not drive this section at night as there is no camel fencing from here on. Also there is no petrol for about 100kms. The countryside is much nicer from here on. You'll see plenty of signs for Salwa (the border town in Saudi).


Go through a Check Point at 311kms (25 21.79’N 49 23.73’E) and soon after you will see a number of rock crushing works as well as plenty of Saudi Aramco pipelines. At 327 kms look out for a right turn signposted Qatar, cross over a railway line and pass the turnoff for Ahsa Airport (25 18.0’N 49 29.9’E)

The road thro Khurais and Hofuf is well laid now; two tracks on either side. There is a bypass road on the outskirts of Hofuf, which means you don't have to go through Hofuf's centre any more. You now need to drive close to 120 kms till you reach the Saudi border post at Salwa, but be careful with drifting sand.

Your first sight of the sea is at 464kms and 20kms later (24 45.99’N, 50 44.80’E). You should fill up at the petrol station – the last in KSA before you cross the border at Salwa (24 43.29’N, 50 45.92’E)

Going through the border, you collect a piece of paper at the first control (where they check your car’s istimara papers); the second control is where you get your passport exited from saudi. There is then an 8km journey to the Qatari border post (24 44.92’N, 50 51.05’E) where you can stop for a loo break, café and shop before the next controls if you wish to.


Here you will be relieved of QR100 for a visa – but note you have to pay by credit card as they are not allowed to accept payment in cash. If you don’t have a credit card then you have to go in to the Customs hall to the payment desk on the right hand end and purchase an e-card for QR20 and then charge it in multiples of QR50.

Once that is done and you have had your passport stamped, you go to the customs shed and thence to the insurance kiosk. No matter that you may have arranged car insurance in KSA before you left. You will still be relieved of SR106 for three days, even if you are going for one day only

Finally you hand in your original piece of paper which will have been stamped at each of the control points and you are finally in Qatar. You can drive for about 85 kms in one straight line and you come across only a few intersections and fly overs.

If you didn’t have the foresight to bring your own music, there is very little to listen to on the radio until you’re well into the Eastern province, whence you can pick up two Saudi Aramco stations – Studio 1 on 91.4MHz and Studio 2 on 91.9 and 101.4 MHz. Qatar Broadcasting (QBS) broadcasts in English and French on 97.5MHz. There are also some additional radio stations [AM/FM ] catering to Tamil & Malayalam speakers, streamed out from the UAE on 1152 & 657 Khz, and 89.5 & 91.4 Mhz for English music

* I am grateful to Gopalan Kalpathy for sending updates to this page November 2011 and to Nik Granger for sending updates in March 2012, who added: "Your directions to Doha were very helpful, and we were able to make it in about 6 hours including the border crossing. On the return journey, we decided to take a slightly alternate route, coming back through Khurais before rejoining the Riyadh-Dammam motorway near Sa'ad. This saved about 50km from the journey and was less stressful as the traffic on that road is lighter yet one can go at the same speed given the dual carriageway is just as good as the main motorway.".

Currency

The Saudi Arabian Riyal is divided into 100 halalah.

The currency is tied to the American dollar at a rate of $1 = SR3.75

Bank notes come in SR1, SR5, SR10, SR20, SR50, SR100, SR200 and SR500 denominations.





 


Coins come in 10h, 25h and 50h values, but don't be surprised when values are rounded to the nearest riyal as many stores - especially the big supermarkets - try not to use the coins.

Newer bank notes feature King Abdullah, but at the present time, the older style King Fahd designs are still legal tender.













Arabic Crib Sheet

Once you are outside the centre of downtown Riyadh, you will find that many road signs are written in Arabic only.

And there will come a time, sooner or later, when the particular place you are looking for will be on one of those signposts.

If you cannot follow Arabic script, this could cause you a little 'mushkillah'. Worry not! What follows is a list of the most common place names you are likely to need.

Remember, though, that very often a name will have ‘Al’ - ال - written in front of it – unless the name begins with a vowel in which case it looks like الا. Hence Al Imam is الامام whereas Al Riyadh (pronounced Ar-Riyadh) is الرياض

Abdul Aziz عبدالعزيز
Abdullah عبدالله
Abdul Rahman عبدالرحمن
Batha'a بطحاع
Dammam دمام
Dir'iyyah درعيه
Dirab ديراب
Dirah ديرة
Durma ضرما
Fahd فهد
Faisal فيصل
Ihsa إحساع
Imam امام
Izdihar اخدهار
Khaled خالد
Kharj خرج
King ملك
Khoreis خريص
Makkah المكرمة مكة
Malaz ملز
Manfouha منفوحة
Medinah المنورة مدينة
Mohammed محمد
Murabba مربع
Olaya عليا
Orouba عروبة
Prince / Amir امير
Qasr al Hokm الحكم قصر
Qassim قصيم
Riyadh رياض
Road طريق
Saud سعود
Saudi Arabia السعودية العربية
Suleimaniah سليمانية
Street شارع
Sultan سلطان
Turki تركي
Wazeer وخير

Sky Diving

You’re in a perfectly good aeroplane. It’s not on fire and you don’t have to bail out – but you do...

Saudi Arabia may not be the first place you would think of for recreational aero-sports, but for the past few years the Kingdom has been encouraging private individuals to take up such hobbies as paragliding, paramotoring and radio controlled model aircraft flying, as well as sky diving and the flying of light aircraft.


It is overseen by the Saudi Aviation Club which was established in 2000 as an independent not-for-profit entity to promote aeronautical science within the Kingdom and to encourage the practice of personal, recreational and sports aviation activities to the highest possible standards.

 

SAC also offers skydiving training for the public and this – along with many of the other aero-sports – takes place at the recently refurbished Thumamah Airfield with its 4000-metre long runway.


A general aviation flight school has been established which provides pilot training to any person interested in becoming a professional pilot, or would like to learn flying as a hobby. It issues private, commercial and Airline Transport Pilot Licenses with instrument and multi-engine rating, and is also authorised to offer refresher courses for holders of private pilot licenses (PPLs) from other countries desiring to fly in Saudi Arabia.

Anyone interested in joining the Saudi Aviation Club should go to their web site: www.sac.com.sa

Thumamah Airport is located some 60kms north of Riyadh, past Janadriyah.
25 13.3’ N; 46 38.2’ E

Golf

It comes as a surprise to many people that despite its desert location, Riyadh boasts five green golf courses and a host of brown ones as well. But the days of individual golfers having to carry around their own piece of astro-turf may soon become a thing of the past.


 
Traditional brown Saudi courses are played on sand which has been smoothed with oil. The very first of Riyadh’s green courses opened in 1994 at the Intercontinental Hotel – 9 holes that double up as an 18-hole, 2,219 yard par 55 course. Here you play ‘out’ off the red tees and ‘in’’ off the white ones. Each hole is par 3 except for the sixth which is par 4. Not surprisingly, it tends to get extremely busy at weekends. Further details on 01-465 5000

Another course can be found right in the heart of one of the most luxurious residential compounds to be found in Riyadh. Arizona boasts 9 holes which double up to a 4,180 yard, par 68 18-hole course. There is a feature lake on the 376-yard fourth par 5 hole and a 24-stall driving range. Non residents can get individual memberships by phoning 01-248 4444 x454.

There’s a par-3 9-hole course at the Reef club to the north of Riyadh which also has a good swimming pool and clubhouse restaurant.

To find it you leave the northern ring road at junction 1 heading north. At Al Ammariyah turn left for six kilometers and turn right at the mosque. You will see it signposted eight kms later. Further details on 01-489 0226.

One of the best of the green courses can be found at Dirab, an hour’s drive from downtown Riyadh at the foot of the Tuwaiq escarpment. With 18 holes, the course is rated par 72 at 6,455 yards. With two lakes and a floodlit back 9, the club is for members only and has very tight security. Further information on 01-498 0018.

Finally, there is a fifth Riyadh course on the Qassim Road with 18 grass holes.

Football

Anyone who has been in Saudi Arabia during the World Cup will know how football crazy the Saudis are.

The roads are deserted – as if it were a Friday morning – whilst the entire population is glued to their television sets watching the matches.

If you have the urge to kick a football around yourself, you will have no difficulty finding someone who knows of a team in need of new players. The expatriate compounds, of course, are focal hubs for ‘friendly’ matches to be played.


 
And most Saudi ‘istirahas’ will have their fair share of football games being played in the evenings and weekends.

If you want to go and watch professional football, there are also ample opportunities to do so. The really important matches are played in the King Fahd Stadium but there are plenty of other stadia dotted around the capital – such as Prince Faisal bin Fahd Stadium and Al-Saigh Stadium – where semi-professional games can be seen.

The easiest way to find out what games are being played is to ask virtually any Saudi! But the newspapers on Thursdays also have details.

Falconry

If you get the opportunity to see Falconry in action, you should definitely take it.

It is a traditional sport with a long history in Saudi Arabia. Originally falcons and saluki dogs were hunted together to supplement the poor diet of the desert people. Because much of the falcon’s traditional prey is now endangered, falconry has been limited and is carefully regulated.


Wild falcons are caught during autumn migration and are trained for the hunting season that begins in early November and lasts until March or April. The training period may take a month. The falconer swings a bundle of feathers (tilwah) around his head, which he trains the bird to come to. When the falcon lands on it she is rewarded with a piece of meat. Eventually the falcon learns to return to the lure each time she is released. The falconer wears a glove, or dass, over his wrist to prevent the bird’s sharp claws from hurting him.


When soaring high in the sky, a falcon can spot any movement of the prey more than a mile away. Its sharp prehensile claws and dagger-like beak make it almost impossible for the prey to escape. Well cared for falcons can live for 15 years or more.

Saker and Shaheen (peregrine) are the two main species used for hunting. The Saker is more popular because it is well suited to desert hawking and has more endurance.


Some hotels organise falcon parties for visitors but if you go out into the desert you may also come across people flying their birds.


There is a falcon centre on Imam Saud bin Abdul Aziz Road, close to junction 9, but this is not for visitors – unlike other falcon centres in the Middle East.

Instead, it is one of the largest medical centres for falcons in the world. Not only do they ‘chip’ birds so they can be traced, but they also repair broken wings and cure them of virus and fungal infections.

At the time of writing an even bigger facility is being built at Salbukh. Does anyone have any further information on this?

Equestrian Sports

Throughout the world the Arabian horse is one of the most sought-after breeds. Beautiful, intelligent and loyal, it has a bloodline that dates back thousands of years.

In Saudi Arabia, owning and breeding horses has always been popular with both city dwellers and bedouin alike. The founder of the modern Kingdom, King Abdul Aziz, owned a famous stable, and the Arabian Horse Research Centre in Dirab owns a breeding stock of several hundred stallions and mares, most of which are descendants of his horses.


Horse racing used to take place at the old stadium in Malaz, but now it is held most Thursdays and Fridays between September and April at the newer Equestrian Club a few hundred metres north of Janadriyah.


Although men only can watch from the stands, families are able to watch the spectacle from the excellent restaurant facilities located over the stands. Betting is prohibited. You can telephone 01 254 0222 to get further information.

If you want to ride, rather than watch others, there are numerous clubs and facilities around the capital, but in most cases you will need to register as a member. The International Equestrian School in Malaz not only teaches people to ride but also puts on horse jumping, polo and other events.


There’s an equestrian centre, too, at the northern end of the Diplomatic Quarter and you may well see bridleway signs near the perimeter walk.

The Equestrian Club race track is on the Thumamah Road just north of Janadriyah.
24 58.98’ N; 46 46.97’ E

Dune Bashing

Although many of the desert areas outside Riyadh are surfaced with hard rock and rubble, there are some parts both to the north east and to the west which feature the area’s famous red sands.

Here you will find a number of enthusiasts most weekends driving their 4-wheel-drive cars up and down the dunes – an experience that can be thoroughly heart-stopping and adrenalin pumping at one and the same time!


Whatever you do, don’t even think about taking your own car onto these sands unless you have been trained in sand driving and you know exactly what you are doing.

And always ensure that you have at least one other car with you when attempting to drive the sands as you can almost guarantee that at some time or another you will get stuck and will need someone to pull you out.

The first thing to be done when driving on sand is to lower your tyre pressures. (A good rule of thumb is to use a pressure of around 15psi/100kpa.) This provides a bigger footprint for the tyre and dramatically improves traction.

When cruising the bigger dunes, you should never try driving down at an angle as there is every probability that your car will roll over. Instead you face the car straight down the dune, hold on tight and experience a mixture of fear, apprehension, laughter, exhilaration and finally accomplishment.

My best piece of advice, however, is to join a four wheel drive club and to go out with other like minded individuals. One such club has been in existence for over 20 years and you should be able to get an introduction to such people through expatriate contacts, though for security reasons, they tend not to advertise their presence.

For those of a less adventurous nature, or who just want to experience the sands on an occasional foray, (or for those who love their cars too much to subject them to such conditions!) you could consider a session on a quad bike or trike.


Almost every sand dune in the vicinity of Riyadh has whole squads of quads and a one hour session will normally set you back around SR100.

Cricket

If football is the game of choice for most Saudis, then cricket is the favourite for most visitors from the sub-continent.

Drive round Riyadh any Friday morning and you will see impromptu matches being played in many areas – most notably in the large car parking area next to the stadium in Malaz.


There have been rumours circulating Riyadh for many years of plans in the pipeline for the creation of a cricket stadium specifically to cater for the needs of the Indians and Pakistanis in particular.

Camel Racing

Every visitor to the Middle East should ensure that on at least one occasion they should enjoy the amazing spectacle that is camel racing.

It used to be the traditional desert sport of Bedouin tribes and involved thousands of animals speeding across the open desert.

Today, the desert racing rules have been modified for modern racetracks, and camel races are held at the King Fahd International Stadium every Monday during the winter months.

The annual King’s Camel Race, instituted in 1974, quickly became one of the world’s most important camel events. Between 20,000 and 30,000 spectators usually attend these races.

Camel races are also the traditional start of the National Heritage and Culture Festival at Janadriyah, held every February, when more than 2,000 camels and their riders compete for top prizes.

A winning camel can be worth many thousands of riyals to its owner and competition between the camel owners is intense. At large meetings camels from other Gulf countries are brought to challenge one another. Huge prizes of cars or money reward the winner. No betting is allowed at the track as Islam prohibits this.

Camel races are a test of endurance. The tracks are oval shaped and races are usually between 10 to 14 kilometres.

Before a race, camels are gathered together in huge pens where they are sorted into different categories such as male and female and by age. They will have been exercised every day for weeks before a race to ensure they are in good condition.

Racing camels are also fed a special rich diet to build up their muscles, but for a few days before each race they are given little food as it is felt they perform better on an empty stomach.

Pet Souq

Sometimes in life, things are not always as you would expect. Riyadh’s pet souq could well be a classic example.


Situated south of the city on the Al Hair road in Aziziyah district, it is a conglomeration of shops with birds of every description, fish in a myriad of colours, as well as other animals, most notably dhab – a large spiny-tailed lizard (Uromastyx aegyptius microlepis) that lives in the desert.

Think twice, though, about taking children to this souq as some of the animals are not very well looked after and for some it could be a distressing sight.

In common with many countries around the Middle and Far East, pet birds are often dipped into vats of dye to make their colours stand out; and it’s not even just the plain chicks that get dyed, but even budgerigars and other birds that already possess quite outstanding plumage!


Dye is even injected into some of the fish!


If you get to wonder what kind of a pet a dhab would make, you should be aware that they are considered a cullinary delicacy by bedouin and the fact that there is an istiraha (meeting house) for bedouin just eight kilometres down the road might explain the brisk trade in this species.


For many people, the pet souq may be the only place they are likely to come face to face with one of these amazing creatures. Normally they are spotted in the desert only from a distance and then they will quickly scramble away to the sanctuary of their burrow at the slightest hint of danger. The Dhab may look ferocious but they are really gentle giants and strictly vegetarian.


That apart, this souq also sells every conceivable kind of cage or tank, sells pet food very cheaply and is a fascinating place to wander around, though photography is definitely not a good idea.

Go down Batha’a Street and cross over the southern ring road on to Al Hair Road. Come off at the first flyover, turn left under it and then left back north the way you came. The pet souq is on your right hand side.

24 35.2’ N; 46 44.6’ E

Harraj

Every Saudi city has its Harraj – or junk souq – and Riyadh is no different in this respect. What is different about this one, however, is that it is likely to be one of the biggest ‘flea markets’ you’ll ever have come across in the world.


 
Situated in the district of Manfouha, the souq seems to go on and on for ever. In one area you can buy clothes – a huge selection often in excellent condition for as little as SR1 a piece: anything from tee-shirts to thobes to designer dresses to wedding gowns.


Move round the corner and you’ll come across washing machines – new and second hand – stretching into the distance, whilst there are areas for pots and pans, carpets, office furniture, computer parts, car bits and pieces – you name it, it has it. It even has a mini-souq for chandeliers!


Even if you’re not interested in grabbing yourself a bargain, it’s still a fantastic place to explore – especially in the evenings when the place is jam packed with people.

You get to Manfouha district by driving south down Batha’a Street as far as you can go; just before you meet the southern ring road, Harraj is on your right hand side. Alternatively, drive down King Fahd Highway and at the southern flyovers turn left (signposted Al Kharj). Come off at the second exit (marked for Al Hair) and turn left under the flyover and left again. Harraj is now on your right hand side.

Gold Souq

There are any number of retail outlets for gold across Saudi Arabia, but one of the most popular gold souqs frequented by expatriates can be found in Dirrah.

Gold jewellery is sold according to its weight, almost irrespective of how much workmanship has gone into the making of it. If the seller mentions the workmanship, he is ‘trying it on’ and you should look elsewhere. Accordingly, before you set off, you should check the local gold rate (look in newspapers such as Arab News) and then keep this figure in mind when you enter the shop.

Ask the shop assistant what their gold rate is for today and if it is higher than what you have read, tell him what you saw in the paper. If he is negotiable you can then beat that price (especially if you are interested in purchasing more than one piece of jewellery).

In 2005, new labour laws were introduced making it mandatory for Saudis to be employed in the gold stores. The worst hit were the Indians and the Yemenis, who dominated the scene till the Saudisation drive came into effect to ensure at least 25,000 jobs for young Saudis. Many of the expatriates from the sub-continent had no choice other than to move off to the Emirates and carry on trading from there. Nevertheless, there is still no shortage of gold shops to choose from.

It is little wonder that the Kingdom's gold market is regarded as one of the largest in West Asia. It is estimated at $5 billion. The country has about 6,000 retail shops with Jeddah dominating with 1,300 shops. Nearly half of the gold shops in the country were, hitherto, owned by the expatriates through Saudi sponsors who shared part of the profits by simply lending their names. These expatriates, in turn, employed their kith and kin and carried on the trade for years.

It's a good idea to take a Saudi friend with you if you are able as he will often be able to bargain for a much better price for the gold than can a westerner.

The Dirrah gold souq can be found in Ath Thamairy Street, a stone's throw from the Al Musmak fortress.
24 37.86' N, 46 42.82' E

Fish Souqs

If it’s fish to eat that you’re after, you can buy every shape, colour and description in Riyadh’s plentiful supermarkets and hypermarkets; but take the time to visit one of the fish souqs which are where the discerning chefs head for when they want to rustle up a culinary delight.

For the more traditional type of fish souq, there is the Murabba central market which you can find just to the north of the National Museum.


Alternatively try the Souq Al Shamal (northern souq) just one block south of junction 5 of the northern ring road. At both these markets, the fish are really fresh. If you are buying crabs, ask for females as they have more meat on them. And the giant prawns are simply to die for!


At the Souq Al Shamal you will also find a vegetable and fruit souq as well as another area which sells chicken.

The Murabba fish market is to be found on the first major road north of the Water Tower entrance to the Murabba Park. 24 39.0’ N; 46 42.6’ E

Souq Al Shamal is in Ibn Seina Street 24 25.6’ N; 46 39.2’ E